Chef shows success, organics can go together
By Chris Koger, Markets Editor
WASHINGTON, D.C. -- Nora Pouillon's dedication to the organic industry doesn't begin in the kitchen at Restaurant Nora, and it doesn't end at the plates put in front of her patrons.
The countless hours she and her staff spent over a two-year period to earn the restaurant organic certification -- the first of its kind in 1999 -- indicate how important a role organic produce has in her career, but she's a constant supporter of the industry.
"I've been an advocate for organic, but also for the environment, for sustainable agriculture," Pouillon said. "I believe in a sustainable lifestyle and that everything is connected, the food, the water, the land. What I've tried to do with the restaurant is prove that you can run a successful business with organic food."
Pouillon, who applauds the efforts of the Organic Trade Association, Greenfield, Mass., will be honored with the association's Special Pioneer Award during its annual ceremony at the All Things Organic conference May 3 in Chicago.
"Her strong belief made her overcome all kinds of obstacles in creating entire systems for her restaurants and distributors to supply the items she needs," association executive director Katherine DiMatteo said.
" ... She wanted to demonstrate it could be done and also demonstrate her commitment to the organic standards and their guarantee of integrity to the product."
It wasn't an easy process. The certifier, Oregon Tilth Inc., and the restaurant's staff were venturing into uncharted territory. Pouillon opened Restaurant Nora in 1979, and continuously worked to use more organic ingredients. With the certification, though, she has to provide documentation that 95% of the food is organic.
"I had to find new sources for my food. It was a long process, and I have somebody on staff who does nothing but make sure (suppliers) have certification papers," Pouillon said.
Ten years ago, that would have been impossible, she said, without a source of certified organic salt, chocolate and sugar. Those basic items were readily available in the conventional food stream but were an organic rarity at the time. Also, large quantities of organic balsamic vinegar and olive oil would be prohibitively expensive.
Now there's very little that goes into her dishes that isn't certified organic, exceptions are curry powder and other spices. Eight years ago, she opened Asia Nora in Washington, D.C., but she's not pursuing organic certification there. Although she sources produce from the same network of 25-30 growers in the region, too much of the Asian spices and other foods, including specialized noodles, aren't readily available as organic.
Fortunately, organic produce has been relatively easy to find, although menu options are limited by what's in season. To this day, Restaurant Nora's menu is constantly changing.
"You adjust for it, because there aren't a million organic farmers out there," she said. "You have to be very flexible, creative and dedicated, so you don't give in and say 'I'll just get it conventionally.'"
Organic produce is plentiful in spring, but even the winter provides an opportunity, with greens and root vegetables. Potatoes and onions are staples, as are apples and more exotic items like blood oranges and Belgian endive, which are available at times.
"Fava beans are not in just yet, and morels come in this weekend," Pouillon said in late April.
Pouillon applauds both the smaller organic growers who direct market their produce at farmers markets and the large-scale conventional growers who are entering the category to catch some of the growing sales.
"I only look at the end result, and the end result is more and more people are becoming organic farmers, and that's better," she said.
Pouillon would like to pursue a chain of fast-food outlets that focus on organic and healthful food options.
"I would love to find somebody who has the money who wants to do it," she said. "One of the things with organic foods is that people say it's only for the privileged few, because it's expensive, but I don't think so. I think you can have a family restaurant chain with organic food."
Organic Agriculture Award: Neil Strayer, an organic grain farmer near Belle Plaine, Saskatchewan, also will be honored by the association on May 3, with the 2004 Organic Agriculture Award.
In 1984, Strayer founded Growers International Inc., an organic trading venture that restored grain elevators for organic grain.
DiMatteo said Strayer was instrumental in introducing organic grains from Canada to Japan and Europe. Although he's officially retired, Strayer continues to lobby against genetically engineered crops.
"In reviewing the nominees, we try to look for individuals that really stand out from the rest of the candidates," DiMatteo said. "Many people in the organic industry have dedicated themselves, their families and their businesses because they feel a great deal of personal commitment, but we also look for something unique about the candidates."
Reprinted by permission from THE PACKER.
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