Fiber: Post-Harvest Handling, Processing, Record Keeping & Labeling
(Organic Fiber Processing Standards)
Statement of the OTA Board, January 17, 2007:
Be It Resolved:The Organic Trade Association Board of Directors is pleased by the completion of the Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) and OTA’s participation in that process.Recognizing that during that process OTA agreed that upon completion OTA would recognize the GOTS as a global standard for organic textile certification, now OTA does so formally.In doing so, OTA recognizes that the American Organic Fiber Processing Standards (AOFPS) remain as policy guidance for OTA members and others in the organic community of the United States and Canada. Because in many cases the AOFPS is more detailed and the GOTS does not contradict its standards, it will remain available as guidance in the implementation of the GOTS.
PLEASE NOTE: All fiber sold as organic in the US must meet the USDA National Organic Program rule for crop production, and if necessary, livestock production.
OTA members may view information about GOTS at: http://www.ota.com/m/communities/taskforces/gots.html.
See the GOTS web page at http://www.global-standard.org/.
What federal organic standards are in place currently?
While there are already federal organic fiber production standards in place concerning the on-farm production of raw fiber (cotton, livestock etc.), there are no federal standards for the processing of organic raw fiber from the time it leaves the farm, to when a finished product is available for retail.
PLEASE NOTE: All fiber sold as organic in the US must meet the USDA National Organic Program rule for crop production, and if necessary, livestock production.
What do OTA’s organic fiber processing standards cover?
OTA’s organic fiber processing standards, approved January 2004, address all stages of textile processing, from post-harvest handling to wet processing (including bleaching, dyeing, printing), fabrication, product assembly, storage and transportation, pest management, and labeling of finished products. They also include an extensive list of materials permitted for, or prohibited from, use in organic fiber processing under the standards.
How were processing standards developed?
OTA has been developing guidelines for organic fiber processing through an industry consensus process since 1998. To develop these standards, OTA referenced a number of international organic fiber processing standards, used the labeling categories from the US federal organic standards, and incorporated comments from OTA members and outside technical experts.
What finishing materials are permitted or prohibited, and on what basis?
OTA’s standards permit materials that have been carefully reviewed according to evaluation criteria from the U.S. Organic Foods Production Act (OFPA) and the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) National Organic Program. The evaluation criteria are designed to minimize negative environmental effects and risks to human health. For example, materials allowed under the standard cannot be known to cause cancer, genetic damage, birth defects or endocrine disruption. In addition, they must be biodegradable and meet strict requirements that which limit toxicity. Examples of materials prohibited by the standards include chlorine bleach, formaldehyde, some azo dyes, and plastisols.
How can I label my finished product? The labeling provisions in the OTA standards are different from those in USDA’s 2000 OFPA Final Rule preamble. Which should I use?
OTA’s standards include four label categories that are modeled after the standards for organic foods in the U.S. organic regulations: “100% organic,” “organic,” “made with organic,” and listing of the individual organic components on the ingredients panel. However, in contrast to its system for labeling food, the USDA proscribed a system for labeling fiber products in the Final Rule that only allows one category. The preamble to the 2000 USDA rule said “goods that utilize organic fibers in their manufacture may only be labeled as a ‘made with * * *’ product; e.g., a cotton shirt labeled ‘made with organic cotton.’”
In April 2004, USDA released a statement addressing the scope of the federal program. OTA’s understanding of the document is that certifiers will be able to certify according to the OTA standards, using OTA’s labeling provisions.
So long as your processed fiber product is certified clearly to OTA’s American Organic Standards, you may use OTA’s language to describe your product.
The Federal Trade Commission has told OTA that companies may list the percent of organic fiber content on a product’s content label and include the word “organic” to describe the fiber.
Does OTA membership require that my company be certified for both production and processing?
The OTA standards are voluntary standards. However, OTA urges members to use them in order to encourage consumer awareness of organic fiber products, distinguish your products in the marketplace, and assure consumers those products preserve the integrity of organic agriculture that begins on the organic farm.
Would each of my production facilities have to get certified, even if they are in different countries?
OTA’s standards require that each facility involved in the production of a finished organic fiber product be certified.
My products are already certified according to international organic fiber processing standards. Will I have to get them certified according to OTA standards before I can sell them in the U.S.?
No. Because there are no federal standards for finished fiber products in the U.S. and the OTA standards are voluntary, a company may sell in the U.S. organic fiber products certified under other standards as long as the certifier of the organic fiber is accredited by the USDA and the label claims are truthful.
How can I get my products certified?
Contact a certification organization that is a member of OTA to express your interest. OTA member certifiers are listed on the OTA directory, The Organic Pages Online, at http://www.theorganicpages.com/ . Certifiers interested in offering organic fiber product certification should contact David Gagnon (dgagnon@ota.com) for more information about any upcoming certifier trainings.
How is OTA involved in developing international organic fiber processing standards?
OTA is an active participant in the International Working Group on International Fiber Processing Standards and is also cooperating with the standards development process of the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM). OTA has shared drafts of its standards with the others in the international working group for their consideration.
What is the process for revising the OTA standards?
OTA has a revisions process in place as part of its American Organic Standards. This will enable OTA members to request revisions, and allows for OTA to suggest changes to its own standards as new methods, materials, and information for organic fiber processing become available. Information on the revision process is on the last page of the American Organic Standards available at http://www.ota.com/standards/aos/index.html.
How can I get a copy of OTA’s fiber processing standards?
One must apply for a license to get a copy of the standards – the licensing agreements are available at www.ota.com/standards.fiberstandards.html. Licenses are free to OTA members, $500 for non-members. A new "review only" license is now available at no cost for those companies that wish to review the standards in their entirety.
